Macerated cherry, plum and spice aromas and flavors are allied to eucalyptus, menthol, saline and mineral elements. Taut and tannic, with a lingering, vibrant finish echoing the fruit and underbrush notes. Best from 2022 through 2033. 1,916 cases made, 50 cases imported. — BS

Ripeness, or over-ripness to be more specific, is a problem across the board with the Barbaresco wines from this vintage. The team at La Spinetta has expertly faced the problem. The 2015 Barbaresco Gallina Vürsù does indeed show a dark, more exuberant quality of fruit, but the wine never loses sight of its inner elegance and grace. Instead, the fruit's maturity and sweetness is played out in terms of the thick layering and density that is very apparent to the palate.

This opens with subdued aromas suggesting scorched earth, camphor, pressed rose and an unusual whiff of chopped celery. The aromas follow over to the extremely firm, austere palate along with a notes of dried cherry, ground clove and toast. It's lean in terms of fruit richness and has assertive grainy tannins that dry out the finish.