Croft's showpiece estate at Pinhão always forms the base of the producer's Vintage Ports. Here it shines on its own in a wonderful perfumed, richly textured wine. In a dry style, the wine goes for richness and nutty, dried raisin flavors. With its structure, it will certainly age. Drink from 2028.

The 2018 Vintage Port Quinta da Roeda is a field blend aged for approximately 18 months in very large used wooden vats. It comes in with 104 grams of residual sugar. Ripe and expressive, this delicious single-quinta Porto also has fine concentration and some pop on the finish. Indeed, as this sits and airs out, it proves it has a real backbone. Two days later, it was pretty tight. This is more about fruit than structure, though, and this sexy, nuanced and succulent Port is going to be hard to resist as it ages. Likely to be accessible on the younger side, it should still hold very well. I need to see a bit more to be fully convinced, but right now this seems like the steal and sleeper of the Fladgate Partnership trio this issue (the Fonseca and Taylor's being the others). For the moment-and young Ports do change notably as they age-this would be my favorite of the trio. The price references a full bottle, although this was tasted from a half bottle.

Sleek in feel, with a mix of raspberry and plum reduction, melted black licorice and fruitcake notes that stretch out over a graphite edge on the finish. Has good energy from start to finish. Best from 2030 through 2045. 2,000 cases made. — JM