A mix of earth, sweet oak, black cherry and black pepper flavors signals this powerful Volnay. Iron and graphite elements emerge as this builds to a muscular, tannic finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 550 cases made, 150 cases imported. — BS

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret reveals attractive notes of cassis, smoky cherries and black raspberries, followed by a medium-bodied, ample palate with a fleshy core of fruit, succulent acids and chalky structuring tannins. Somewhat rustic in profile, it falls between the suave 2017 and chewy 2015 renditions in style.