Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 les Grands Chênes comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of stewed black plums, warm cassis and boysenberries, plus suggestions of pencil shavings, wild sage and crushed rocks. The medium to full-bodied palate is packed with energetic, crunchy black fruits, supported by fine-grained tannins and tons of freshness, finishing with a compelling herbal lift.

This has good energy, with a brambly edge from the get-go that drives along tasty blackberry and black currant preserves, which are augmented through the finish by anise and apple wood. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2027.