Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019

This is fluid and starts out supple, evoking cherry, plum and forest floor flavors, with flashes of tar and pine. The taut, driving structure, especially its bracing acidity, propels this red to the superlong aftertaste. Dense, resonant tannins define the finish, which feels compact now despite the unabashed length. Best from 2029 through 2048. 1,000 cases made, 350 cases imported.

A very classic and telltale Montalcino. The subtle nose shows smoky woodland and forest-floor aromas allied to dried cherries and raspberries, dried roses and earthy minerality. The full-bodied palate has velvety tannins, a chalky finish, refreshing acidity and a tight, eminently floral finish. Drinkable now but best from 2028 or 2029.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and brooding, with hints of black tea leaves, crushed rocks and smoke before giving way to the scent of dried black cherry. It balances silken textures with a pure mix of ripe red and black fruits as cooling acidity maintains a lovely balance. Aromas of citrus-laced blackberries mix with sage and nuances of licorice. This finishes long and potent yet still quite fresh.

Like many other producers in the appellation, Altesino jumped forward from the 2017 Riserva directly to this vintage. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows more density and overall fruit weight. The wine also reveals thick textural heft and, ultimately, more dark fruit sweetness. It gives us a much bigger and richer interpretation of Sangiovese. Production is 12,000 bottles.

The 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva is a saturated but youthful deep red/brick color and is ripe with notes of black licorice, walnut, dark cherry pit, and polished leather. Full-bodied, it has more gamey richness on the palate, with ripe tannins and an earth-noted finish. I prefer the Brunellos over the Riserva here, as they offer more transparency and freshness. Drink over the coming 8-10 years.