This is solid, with a still-tight core of black cherry and dark plum fruit liberally laced with warm stone, garrigue, tar and alder notes. Plenty grippy, with a smoldering tobacco accent through the finish. Best from 2022 through 2035. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported. — JM

The old vine cuvée is the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Du Papet, which sees more stems and is brought up in foudre. It has a similar purity of fruit compared to the classic cuvée, yet it shows slightly more stem influence in its ground pepper, crushed violets, earth, and obvious mineral-driven aromas and flavors. It's rich and flawlessly balanced, with ripe, present tannins and a great finish. It's going to need a year or three of bottle age (it's far from unapproachable, however) and will keep for 15-20 years or more.