Well-built, with a steady intensity to the waves of white peach, star fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and mirabelle plum. Delivers flashes of lemon shortbread and quinine through the finish, giving it both plump and racy elements. This is hard to lay off now, but it has some development ahead of it. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc and Roussanne. Drink now through 2030. From France.—J.M.

The 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is more tight and backward, with medium-bodied aromas and flavors of pear, white flowers, licorice, and crushed stone. Nicely concentrated and balanced, it's going to benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age and keep for two decades. It's a classic, age-worthy, regal white from this estate.