Packaged in that trademark bottle that feels so good in the palm of your hand, the Travaglini 2016 Gattinara offers aromas of forest berry, wild rose, tar and licorice, and there's a slightly exotic aroma as well that hints at Asian spice or church incense. It's a very faint accent that appears as the wine opens slowly in the glass. There is beautiful harmony and complexity here, and you can pick up on that slightly sweet note of peach or sun-dried apricot that I associate with Nebbiolo from the Gattinara appellation. This is a classic expression that shows the firmness and acidity to promise a smooth future aging process.

Beautiful freshness and poise to this Gattanara with nutmeg, dried rose petals, saffron and cinnamon. A finely constructed structure follows with velvety, steely tannins and a spiced, chewy finish.

The tannins sneak up on you, imparting a raspy feel on the finish, yet this offers plump cherry and strawberry fruit midpalate. Light mint and eucalyptus accents add interest. Rustic. Drink now through 2024. 180,000 cases made, 5,250 cases imported.