Juicy and muscular, with a ball of plum paste, warmed fig compote and black currant reduction flavors that need time to unwind. Ample graphite- and bramble-accented grip underscores the fruit on the finish, while a ganache note finds room to strut its stuff in the end. Should be one of the longer-lived wines of the vintage. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2030 through 2055. 1,600 cases made, 490 cases imported. - JM

The 2018 Vintage Port is a field blend aged for 18 months in old wood vats. It comes in with 100 grams of residual sugar. This was bottled May 13, 2020. Simply gorgeous, this is aromatic, chock-full of flavor and wholly delicious-but that's just the starting point. It has a serious backbone too, perfectly countered by the mid-palate depth. More than lovely, it might well be my favorite of the 2018s I've seen thus far, if I were forced to pick just one. It is surprisingly accessible, in a way, but that's because the mid-palate soaks up the power. It was certainly still vibrant days later. It should age well, but let's be just a little conservative now in evaluation and drinking windows.

"The 2018 Quinta do Noval is exuberant and calls out for attention on the nose: black plums, sage, cloves and potent scents of fireside hearth. Lovely definition here and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, smooth and disarmingly harmonious. It fans out with confidence and delivers Oriental spices, hoisin, tobacco and black pepper on the very persistent finish. This is a superb Quinta do Noval."